NORTH
Although the Lower North Shore harbour front now contains some of the most valuable
and exclusive real estate in Australia, it was originally the burial ground
of the infant colony because it was considered to be far enough away to prevent
the spread of disease.
How To Get There
Whatever form of transport is used, visitors must first cross the Sydney Harbour
Bridge. By Train
Trains from Central Station pass through Town Hall, Wynyard and Milsons Point
to North Sydney. If you are on a train that is going to travel the City Circle,
you must change trains at Town Hall or Wynyard for one on the Northern Line.
After North Sydney, the service continues through many suburban stations to
Hornsby, where it may terminate, or link up with the main northern line to
Newcastle, Dungog and Scone.
There is no rail service to the Lower North Shore suburbs, but buses from the
city stop at North Sydney Station. By Bus
Buses to the Lower North Shore begin in Carrington Street, at Wynyard Station.
There are several to choose from, but there is a route map there, and a ticket
machine. Some buses travel via North Sydney Station, while others take the
Freeway and exit the Bridge on Military Road. By Car
There are signs on all roads leading to the city that direct you to the Bridge
or the Cahill Expressway. Once on the Bridge, Lane 1 has an exit for Lavender
Bay, Milsons Point, and access under the Bridge to Kirribilli; Lanes 1 and
2 allow cars to exit to North Sydney, and Lane 2 also allows travel to the
next exit for Crows Nest and Manly. To reach Military Road, and the suburb
of Neutral Bay, follow the signs leading to Manly. Lane 4 also has an exit
for Neutral Bay and Kirribilli, but this is not as easy to follow. By Ferry
Ferries leave from Circular Quay Wharf 4 for the Lower North Shore suburbs.
Buses meet the ferries to take passengers to the main street, Military Road.
Attractions
On the western side of the Bridge are the suburbs of Milsons Point and Lavender
Bay. Milsons Point is home to North Sydney Olympic Pool, and the now inoperative
Luna Park. Lavender Bay has harbourside parkland, from where you can get
great photographs of the harbour.
The suburb of North Sydney rivals the Sydney CBD for skyscraping office blocks,
and has a few large shopping areas, and numerous restaurants. North Sydney
is really a mid-week place, as the service industry is geared for the office
worker rather than the resident. This, of course, does not apply to a few good
quality night venues.
On the eastern side of the Bridge lies Kirribilli
and the stately mansions, Admiralty House, Sydney residence
of the Governor-General, and Kirribilli House, Sydney
residence of the Prime Minister. These two imposing
buildings can be seen from the Harbour, and about twice
a year they are opened for public inspection. Even
if you are lucky enough to be in Sydney that particular
weekend, think twice about going to view them for the
queues of locals extend for blocks. By the way, Admiralty
House is the one closest to the Bridge. Also in Kirribilli
is the Ensemble Theatre.
Neutral Bay is the first suburb over the Bridge if
you have used the Expressway, and the main street is
lined with designer shops and restaurants. The side
streets on the right hand side lead to the Harbour
and open parklands, and there are many interesting
old Federation homes. The side streets on the left
lead to the suburb of Cammeray, and Long Bay, part
of Middle Harbour.
Military Road, still with door-to-door shops and
restaurants, continues through the Cremorne Junction
to Spit Junction, where Spit Road branches off towards
Manly, and Military Road continues on its way to Mosman,
where the biggest attraction has to be Taronga Zoo.
There is a lovely walk along the foreshores of the
Harbour between Cremorne Point Wharf and Mosman Bay
Wharf.
Taronga Park Zoo
The Zoo, 9969 2777, has Australia's best collection of native and exotic animals.
Its main entrance (for car and bus access) is on Bradley's Head Road, but
it is only a pleasant 12 minute ferry ride from Wharf 4 Circular Quay (leaving
every half hour). Admission prices are $21 adults, $15 children and $55 for
families.
Taronga has Australia's best collection of native
and exotic animals, and also offers some of the finest
views of the city, particularly from near the giraffe
enclosure. There are seal shows, a rainforest aviary,
a nocturnal house, all the usual animals, and Friendship
Farm, where children can pat baby animals. Throughout
the park there are plenty of food outlets, and there
is also a licensed restaurant.
Probably the best way to explore the exhibits is to take the air cable from
the lower wharf to the main entrance at the top of the hill and work your way
down to catch the ferry back at the end of your journey. Of course, if you
use the main entrance to begin with, walk at your leisure to the bottom of
the zoo and remember to catch the air cable back in order to save your legs.
A ZooPass ticket is available from the ticket office
at Circular Quay, and it costs $28 adult, $14 child,
with no combination ticket for a family. The pass includes
the ferry to the Zoo, a bus up to the main entrance,
and the admission fee. Taronga is open every day, including
Christmas Day, 9am-5pm, 9969 2777.
From Mosman, it is also a short drive, or bus ride,
to Balmoral Beach. If you head back to Spit Junction,
and turn right down Spit Road, you will come to The
Spit, the entry to Middle Harbour and the famous, or
infamous, Spit Bridge, which opens to allow tall-masted
boats to pass through into Middle Harbour, where they
moor. There are set times for the opening of the bridge,
but for the unwary driver it seems to be a very time-consuming
occasion. On the other hand, for people on harbour
cruises, it is fascinating to see the giant piece of
the bridge lift skyward. Once through The Spit, the
road goes up a sweeping hill, then a right turn leads
through the suburb of Balgowlah to popular Manly.
Manly
The Manly Visitor Information Centre, 9977 1088, is at North Steyne, on the
beach opposite the Steyne Hotel. There are two websites to visit for this
locality: www.pcn.com.au and the official website of Manly Council, which
is www.manly.nsw.gov.au with an
email address at vic@manly.nsw. gov.au
Probably the most popular attraction at Manly is Oceanworld, West Esplanade,
9949 2644. You have three options for getting close to the sea creatures: viewing
them through the safety of glass, handling them in touch pools or - for the
fearless - rubbing skin against scale with the sharks in the diving tank. Seals
perform at 11.45am and 2pm. Oceanworld is open h10am-5.30pm and entry fees
are $16 adults, $8 children.
EAST
Travelling to the inner eastern suburbs may seem that you have never left the
city. The reason for this is that you really haven't. It is just that most
of the streets have changed their names.
How To Get There By Train
The Eastern Suburbs line runs to Kings Cross, Edgecliff and Bondi Junction. By Bus
Buses to the eastern suburbs leave from Circular Quay and Railway Square. By Car
Drive up William Street from the Australian Museum. At the top of the street,
turn left into Darlinghurst Road to tour Kings Cross, or continue straight
ahead for New South Head Road.
To get to Paddington, follow Oxford Street from Hyde Park. By Ferry
Ferries travel from Circular Quay Wharf 4 to Double Bay, Rose Bay and Watsons
Bay.
Attractions
The first suburb on this trip is Kings Cross, probably one of the best-known
Sydney areas. The Cross is sleazy, of that there is no doubt, with its strip
joints, sex shops and ladies of the night. But, if you drive through during
the day mid-week, it may seem like any other suburb. It is when the sun drops
that it comes into its own. There are some excellent restaurants and night
spots, and there are some places where you have to be brave to enter. It is
not the type of place where you talk to strangers, and believe me, there are
some strange people walking the streets. Nevertheless, there are people who
would think they had not seen Sydney if they hadn't been to the Cross. It is
a haven for backpackers because of the number of cheap hostels, and it is certainly
a central area, but it is probably not a good idea to stay there if you are
travelling with children.
Having said that, there are a couple of landmarks.
The El Alamein Fountain, on the corner of Darling-hurst
Road and Macleay Street, was built to commemorate the
men of the Australian 9th Division who fought in North
Africa during World War II. It is an unusually shaped
ball of a fountain, and there are always hundreds of
people in the park surrounding it.
A short walk away, although in a different suburb,
is Elizabeth Bay House, at 7 Onslow Avenue, Elizabeth
Bay, 9356 3022. It was built for the Colonial Secretary,
Alexander Macleay and his wife Eliza, and is presently
furnished to the period, 1839-1845. In its day it was
considered to be the finest house in the colony, and
its views over the harbour would have been even more
impressive then than they are now. It is a two-storey
house with a grand winding staircase, and is maintained
by the Historic Houses Trust. It is hopen Tues-Sun
(Monday when a public holiday) 10am-4.30pm (except
Christmas Day and Good Friday) and admission is $7
adult, $4 child, $17 family.
Paddington is another suburb that seems to be part
of the city, but it is a charming part. It has many
crooked streets lined with pretty terrace houses that
are decorated with Paddington Lace, a distinctive wrought-iron
trimming. The original village was established in the
1840s and housed the workers building the Victoria
Barracks. Parts of the original little town can be
seen in the area bounded by Shadforth, Prospect and
Spring Streets.
Darlinghurst Road links Kings Cross with Paddington,
or you can follow Oxford Street from the city.
Attractions in the area include numerous antique shops along Queen Street,
and art galleries sprinkled along Oxford Street and the side streets. The Paddington
Village Bazaar is held in the Uniting Church grounds every Saturday (see Shopping).
Victoria Barracks in Oxford Street, next to the Town
Hall, 9339 3170, is a Georgian-style building (1841-1848)
and a living history of Australia's military. The Army
Museum is hopen on Sunday 10am-3pm.
The Sydney Cricket Ground is a little further south,
in Driver Avenue, Moore Park, 9360 6601. This famous
and historic site continues to play host to many notable
sporting events. A Sportspace Tour is available, guiding
visitors through the complex and its memorabilia for
$20 adults, $13 children and $52 for families, 9380
0383 (bookings essential).
Centennial Park in Oxford Street, was founded in
1888 to celebrate the centenary of the colony. The
park is open daily sunrise-sunset, and there are facilities
for hiring horses and bikes (see Sport).
Double Bay, one of the most up-market suburbs in
Sydney, is reached in a car by following New South
Head Road from Kings Cross; or by bus from Elizabeth
Street; or by train to Edgecliff and walking down New
South Head Road. Known by Sydneysiders who can't afford
to shop here as 'Double Pay', it is the most exclusive
shopping area in Sydney, and all the well-known, top-class
designers have outlets. The surrounding areas of Darling
Point, Point Piper, Vaucluse, etc, are populated by
people who can afford to shop here, and it is worth
a visit.
New South Head Road continues through Rose Bay and
on to Vaucluse where it is worth visiting Vaucluse
House, which dates from 1803. It was the home of William
Charles Wentworth, one of the intrepid trio who first
crossed the Blue Mountains, and the father of the Australian
Constitution. He, and his wife Sarah and their children,
lived here from 1829 to 1853, and it's furnishings
still recall that period. The house is set in 11ha
with gardens, bushland and a harbour beach frontage,
and has out-buildings and stables. The house is hopen
Tues-Sun 10am- 4.30pm and Monday if it is a public
holiday. Admission is $6.50 adults, $2.50 children,
$15.50 family. There are tearooms in the grounds, and
they serve a-la-carte lunches, and Devonshire teas
that you would die for. If you are not driving, Bus
325 from Circular Quay stops at the front gate.
The end of New South Head road is Watsons Bay, which
is on the Harbour, near South Head and the Harbour
entrance. The area's most famous landmark is not, as
some would say, the pub, nor is it Doyle's restaurant
- it is The Gap, a cliff from which there are great
views, and from where people have committed suicide
by jumping into the ocean below. When things are not
going too well for them, it is common for Sydneysiders
to say that they are going to throw themselves off
The Gap, although fortunately not many do.
Nearby is the anchor from the ill-fated Dunbar, a barque which was to carry
passengers and goods on a regular basis between Sydney and England, but was
wrecked on the rocks of The Gap on its second voyage in August 1857. It was
Sydney's worst shipping disaster, with 121 lives lost and only one survivor.
From Watsons Bay you can follow Old South Head Road
to Bondi Junction, or turn off Old South Head Road
left onto Military Road and head for Bondi Beach and
the other beaches to the south. Bondi Junction is about
2km from the beach, and is the main bus/train link
for public transport throughout this area. It is also
quite a good shopping centre, and its branches of David
Jones and Grace Bros are linked by the Oxford Street
pedestrian Mall, which has many specialty shops. Bus
no 280 runs between Bondi Beach and Bondi Junction.
SOUTH
The southern suburbs are for the most part either industrial or residential,
and if you arrived by air, you have already travelled through parts of them.
However, there are a few places that are historically interesting on the
shores of Botany Bay. The two main areas are La Perouse, on the north head
of Botany Head, and Kurnell on the south head. How To Get There By Train
There is no direct train route to La Perouse.
To get to Kurnell, take the train to Cronulla, then local Bus 67 from the depot
opposite the station, near Munroe Park. By Bus
Bus no 398 runs from Circular Quay to La Perouse.
The best transportation route to Kurnell is detailed above. By Car
To get to La Perouse, follow Anzac Parade all the way from Taylor Square in
Oxford Street.
To get Kurnell from there, drive around the foreshores of the bay, crossing
Endeavour Bridge and Captain Cook Bridge.
It is difficult to get to both places in one trip without a car.
Attractions
La Perouse
La Perouse is named after Jean-Francois de Galaup, Comte de Laperouse, who
was commissioned by Louis XVI in 1785, to set out on a voyage of discovery.
The expedition consisted of two ships, L'Astrolabe and La Boussole. Two and
a half years later, the two ships arrived in Botany Bay, a week after the arrival
of the First Fleet. La Perouse and Captain Phillip apparently became good friends,
and the Frenchman gave Phillip reports and letters to be sent back to his king.
The French ships stayed in Botany Bay for a period of six weeks, then La Perouse
set sail, never to be heard from again.
The whereabouts of the ships remained a mystery until the two wrecks were discovered
on the reefs of Vanikoro, off the Solomon Islands, by Peter Dillon, an Irish
trader and adventurer.
The La Perouse Museum, 9311 3379, is housed in the Cable Station, inside a
circle formed by the end of Anzac Parade. It contains many artefacts from the
wrecks, as well as relics from their time in the Bay.
The Cable Station was designed and built between
1880 and 1881 to provide accommodation, offices and
telegraph facilities for the officers of the Eastern
Extension Australasia and China Telegraph Company.
The company's submarine cable between La Perouse and
Wakapuaka in New Zealand terminated here.
On the bay foreshore, where La Perouse landed, there
is an obelisk to commemorate his visit, and close by
is the grave of Pere L.C. Receveur, a chaplain and
naturalist with the expedition who has the honour of
being the first Frenchman to be buried on the Australian
continent.
The Macquarie Watchtower, also in the circle formed
by the road, was built between 1820 and 1822, to prevent
smugglers entering Botany Bay.
A causeway from the tip of the point leads to Bare
Island, on which the fort was built in 1881, following
Britain's decision to give self governing colonies
the responsibility for their own defence. It only operated
as a means of defence for 27 years, then it became
a war veterans' home, then a museum with exhibits associated
with its early history.
Kurnell
Kurnell has Captain Cook's Landing Place, an historic site of over 400ha. Cook
landed at 3.00pm on April 28, 1770, and tradition maintains that the first
person to step ashore was his wife's young cousin, Isaac Smith. The spot
where he scrambled onto dry land is marked with a small obelisk, and there
is a larger one dedicated to the discovery nearby. The site is also a monument
to the Gwiyagal People, the Aboriginal tribe who inhabited the area at the
time of European discovery.
The Discovery Centre, in Captain Cook Drive, is open
Mon-Fri 11am-3pm and 10am-4pm on weekends and public
holidays, 9668 9111. It is one of the major features
of the site, with exhibits detailing Cook's life, exploits
and achievements, including his notes and opinions
on the country he had discovered.
There are also scenic walks, picnic and barbecue
areas, and an historic walk, and the visitor centre
has maps and leaflets on everything you can see and
do.
WEST
The inner western suburbs were settled in the early days of the colony and
therefore have many buildings and homes from a bygone era. How To Get There By Bus
Buses 438, 440, 470 travel south along George Street and pass the beginning
of Glebe Point Road, Glebe, but the buses that actually drive down Glebe Point
Road are 431, 433, and 434. Bus no 433 continues on to Balmain.
Bus 440 connects the city with Rozelle, passing through the suburbs of Camperdown,
Annandale and Leichhardt. By Road
To get to Glebe, drive south along George Street, which becomes Broadway, then
turn right at the traffic lights on the corner of Glebe Point Road. Incidentally,
at that point Broadway becomes Par-ramatta Road and the Great Western Highway.
Or, if you are crossing the Harbour Bridge, take the Western Distributor, stay
in the left lane, follow the sign to the Western Suburbs, then take the first
exit onto Bridge Road. The Fish Markets are off to the right and if you continue
on you will find yourself in the heart of Glebe.
The best way to get to Balmain from the city is to drive south along George
Street to Leichhardt, turn right at Norton Street, follow that street to its
end, turn left, then right at the first traffic lights, and follow this street,
which undergoes a few name changes before it becomes Darling Street and travels
through the heart of Balmain.
If you are coming over the Harbour Bridge, take the Western Distributor, continue
over the new Glebe Island Bridge, go with the major flow of traffic turning
right into Victoria Road, then right into Darling Street, Balmain. This way
by-passes Leichhardt. By Ferry
Sydney Ferries travel between Circular Quay and three wharves in Balmain -
Darling Street, Thames Street and Elliott Street.
Attractions
The word 'glebe' means 'a gift to the church', and the suburb of Glebe was
first settled in the late 1700s as a church-owned estate. The church in question
was St John's Church, and it still stands on the corner of Glebe Point Road
and St John's Road. Apparently by the 1820s the church had fallen on hard
times, and the land was sold and subdivided. The high portions of Glebe,
away from the insect-ridden Blackwattle Swamp (now known as Blackwattle Bay)
were purchased by wealthy families. Grand houses with names such as Hereford
House, Forest Lodge, Toxteth House and Lyndhurst were built. The land that
was not so valuable became as area for worker's cottages, many of which have
recently been restored.
By 1861, Glebe was Sydney's largest suburb and quite
a stylish place to live, but by 1911 things had changed
dramatically. The wealthier older families moved out,
and the poor moved in, so by about 1930 there was nothing
grand about giving your address as Glebe.
In a full turnaround, Glebe has become a trendy place to live again, and it
has a small shopping centre with lots of art galleries and heritage shops.
There are also many fine, cheap restaurants along Glebe Point Road, and a couple
that are really up-market - The Abbey, 9660 4792, and Darling Mills, 9660 5666.
Unfortunately, many of the old historic homes are
privately owned, so they are not open to the public,
except on special tours arranged occasionally by the
Glebe Society, 9660 7873.
If you are in Glebe on a Saturday or Sunday, you
might like to visit the Glebe Markets, held in Glebe
Public School, on the corner of Glebe Point Road and
Derby Place. There are lots of stalls selling new clothes
and jewellery, and others offering pre-loved treasures
(see also under Shopping).
On Parramatta Road, opposite the start of Glebe Point Road, is Victoria Park,
which has a wide expanse of lawns for picnics, and a public swimming pool,
9660 4181.
The University of Sydney, on Parramatta Road, adjoins
Victoria Park, and is a sandstone blend of Tudor and
Gothic architecture, with acres of green lawns. The
Great Hall has a Royal Window which illustrates the
monarchy from the Normans to Queen Victoria. The University's
Fisher Library, 9351 2993, contains more than 400,000
volumes, and the Nicholson Museum has a quality collection
of Egyptian, Etruscan, Greek and Roman art.
Leichhardt has a large Italian population, and consequently
a large number of Italian restaurants are found in
the main streets of Parramatta Road and Norton Street.
Leichhardt Park, at the end of Mary Street, has several
football ovals, acres of parkland, and an attractively
sited public swimming complex, 9555 8344, with views
over Iron Cove.
Trendy Norton Street's newest addition is the Italian
Forum. Most residents used to think that the closest
they would ever come to Italy on their own doorstep
was to venture into Norton street and absorb the atmosphere
of its Italian restaurant-lined sidewalk. Developers
decided to go one step further. The Italian Forum is
accessed through a narrow alley where buildings tower
above and charming Tuscan flourishes grace the architecture.
The end of the alley opens onto a stunning courtyard,
surrounded by apartments, shops and restaurants, all
mimicking something similar to the typical image of
a quaint Italian village (except for the commercialism).
This is no down-market immitation - the restaurants
are top-class, the boutiques are expensive and the
apartments exclusive. A statue of Dante, ornate waterscapes
and a bright selection of flowers help to round off
the European feel, and transport you - at least temporarily
- out of Sydney's lifestyle and into another. The Forum
is located 100 metres from the intersection of Parramatta
Road on the right-hand side.
The suburb of Balmain gets its name from Dr Balmain,
who received the whole of the peninsula as a land grant.
To give some idea of the size of his grant, his house
was situated in Johnson Street in the suburb of Annandale.
Balmain is a trendy area now, rivalling Paddington
with its quaint terraces, art galleries and alternative
lifestyle shops, but it wins hands down in the restaurant
department. There are also many pubs that have outdoor
beer gardens and live entertainment.
When driving to Balmain from Victoria Avenue, the
Dawn Fraser Swimming Pool, named after Australia's
swimming legend because this is where she began her
swimming career, is in Elkington Park, 9555 1903. The
park is opposite Young Street, which runs off Darling
Street to the left. Further along Darling Street, there
is a set of traffic lights, and a left turn will take
you into Rowntree Street and lead to the less outrageous
waterfront suburb of Birchgrove.
Balmain Saturday Market is held in the grounds of
St Andrew's Congregational Church, on the corner of
Darling Street and Curtis Road, hevery Saturday 9am-4.30pm, &0418
765 736.
Darling Street continues to Darling Street Wharf, where there is a nice little
park at Peacock Point, and from where the ferries leave for Circular Quay.
Outlying Attractions Parramatta
Parramatta Road terminates at Parramatta, the second oldest settlement in the
country. The area was first visited by Governor Phillip and a party of explorers
on April 24, 1788. It had become obvious that the soil in the area of Sydney
Cove would not produce sufficient crops to feed the infant settlement, and
in September 1788, Governor Phillip announced his intention to found another
settlement. On November 2, 1788, he chose this area, and named the settlement
Rose Hill, but on June 4, 1791, he renamed it Parramatta.
Parramatta became the site of Australia's first orchard,
vineyard, tannery, legal brewery, woollen mills, observatory,
steam mill, market place and fair. It also was the
terminating point of the first road, ferry and rail
links out of Sydney. And, most importantly, it saw
the beginning of Australia's wool industry.
Although, strictly speaking, Parramatta is a suburb
of Sydney, it is a city in its own right with a population
of about 130,000. The Par-ramatta Visitors Centre has
been incorporated into the Parramatta Heritage Centre,
346 Church Street, 9630 3703, and is open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm,
Sat-Sun 10am-4pm. The Centre has a wealth of information
on the city, and a detailed brochure covering walking
tours, restaurants, transport details and more, with
good maps on the area. The brochure is produced annually
and is called Discover Parramatta. The self-guided
tours include a walk through the heart of the central
business district with an excursion into Parramatta
Park and Old Government House; and another which passes
the outskirts of the old town to the important historic
houses of Experiment Farm Cottage, Elizabeth Farm and
Hambledon Cottage. To take both tours requires a full
day, and a certain amount of fitness, as there are
many points of interest. At the end you will have a
good idea of the historical importance of the city.
Parramatta Park is within easy walking distance of
the central business area, and comprises about 85ha.
In the Park are found Old Government House, the Governor's
Bathhouse, The Tudor Gate House, Australia's first
Observatory, and a kiosk with boat and cycle hire.
Nearby are Parramatta Stadium and the Swimming Centre.
Parramatta has an enormous shopping complex located
near the train station, and a section of the main street,
Church Street, is a shopping mall with shrubs, trees,
paved pedestrian areas, a fountain and an amphitheatre.
The beautiful picnic area of Lake Parramatta Reserve
is at the northern edge of the city, and a regular
bus service and a sealed road provide access. The reserve
covers about 65ha (160 acres), and the Lake covers
9ha (23 acres) in area. Along the drive on both sides
of the Lake, and giving shade to the parking and picnic
areas are splendid specimens of Blackbutts, Grey Gums,
Red Mahoganies, Blood-woods, Turpentines, Rough-Barked
Angophoras and Sydney Red Gums. The Lake is very deep
in parts, so boating is prohibited, but there is a
fenced swimming pool and an artificial sandy beach.
There are also fireplaces, tables, toilets and a kiosk.
Parramatta has many sporting facilities, including
Rosehill Racecourse (see under Entertainment), very
good restaurants, three cinema complexes, and a wide
range of accommodation.
The city's main festival is the Wistaria Garden Festival,
held in September each year.
North of Parramatta, in the suburb of West Pennant Hills, is Koala Park Sanctuary,
9484 3141. Set in 4ha, the Park not only has plenty of koalas, there are also
kangaroos, wallabies, wallaroos, wombats, dingoes, echidnas and emus. The Park
is hopen daily 9am-5pm, and photo sessions with koalas are available at intervals
throughout the day. Admission is $14 adults, $8 children and $32 for families.
The Sanctuary is on Castle Hill Road, and to get there from Parramatta follow
Pennant Hills Road to the Castle Hill Road turn-off. To get there from Sydney
by road, travel along Epping Road which becomes Beecroft Road (or along the
M2 to the Beecroft Road exit), to its end, then turn left onto Pennant Hills
Road and a short distance along on the right is the Castle Hill Road turn-off.
From Sydney by train, travel to the Pennant Hills Station, then take Bus 655
to the Park.
Ku-ring-gai ChaseNational
Park
Located 24km (15 miles) north of the city, the Park has numerous bushwalks
and some magnificent Aboriginal rock carvings in accessible spots. The higher
parts of the park afford magnificent views across Pittwater.
On the edge of the park is Waratah Park, 13 Namba
Road, Duffys Forest, home of 'Skippy the Bush Kangaroo'
and many of her friends, including Tasmanian Devils,
dingoes, wombats, wallabies, emus and koalas. Feeding
times are on the hour between 11am and 4pm. There is
a restaurant, a snack bar, and a souvenir shop, and
the Park is hopen every day 10am-5pm, 9450 2377. Admission
is $12.90 adults, $6.50 children and $34.90 for families.
To get there by car, proceed north on the Pacific Highway
to the suburb of Pymble, then turn right onto Mona
Vale Road. Take the left turn to Duffy's Forest off
Mona Vale Road at Terrey Hills, and follow the signs.
Hawkesbury River
The River is 45km (28 miles) north of Sydney, and is dotted with historic towns
such as Windsor, Richmond, Wilberforce, Pitt Town and Wisemans Ferry. It
winds around Sydney's western outskirts through a natural forest area until
finally meeting the sea at Brooklyn. One of the best ways to see it is to
join the Riverboat Postman near the Hawkesbury River Railway Station in Brooklyn.
This four hour cruise includes commentary and snacks. The cost is $35 adults,
$18 children and $72 for families, 9985 7566.
An alternative is to hire a house boat from the many
on offer at Brooklyn, at the southern end of the Hawkesbury
Bridge. Two such companies are Holidays Afloat Houseboats,
9985 7368, and House Boats Prestige, 9985 7744.
Royal National Park History
Royal National Park was gazetted in 1879 as 'The National Park', and was the
first public reserve in Australia to be so termed. In fact, the Park can lay
claim to being the first in the world, because although Yellowstone Park in
the USA was established in 1872, it was not officially gazetted as a national
park until 1883. When Queen Elizabeth II first visited Australia in 1954, she
bestowed the title 'Royal', but most Sydneysiders still refer to it as 'The
National Park'.
The Park is situated south of Port Hacking, about
29km from the centre of Sydney, and covers 16,000ha
of vegetation and landscape typical of the Sydney Basin
sandstone.
The original inhabitants of the area were the Aboriginal people of the Dharawal
tribe, who used the sandstone caves for shelter and lived off the land and
waterways. Little detail is known of their lifestyle as rock engravings, axe-grinding
grooves, charcoal drawings and hand stencils are the only physical remains
of the culture.
The Royal National Park was established by the then
NSW Premier, Sir John Robertson, who saw a need for
a recreation space for Sydney, many parts of which
had become infested with vermin and disease.
Audley was the site of the first European settlement in the Park. The native
mangroves and mudflats were replaced by grassed parkland and exotic trees,
and added to the local fauna were deer, rabbits and foxes.
Park Features
The Park has been shaped from a sloping sandstone plateau, which rises from
sea level at Jibbon Point in the north, to over 300m at Bulgo in the south.
The Park scenery is magnificent and varied. The waves
from the open sea have produced majestic cliffs, broken
every now and then by small creeks and beaches. Deep
river valleys have been formed by streams flowing north
to Port Hacking and east to the Pacific Ocean. The
upper slopes have woodlands that merge with the heath
vegetation on the plateaux. Gorges and valleys have
forest and rainforest, the tidal channels of the rivers
have mangrove, and the swamps are covered in sedges.
There are numerous grassy areas along the Hacking River valley, and from July
to November the wild-flowers on the plateaux provide a riot of colour. There
are waterfalls at Wattamolla, Curracurrong, Uloola and National Falls.
How to Get There By Rail
Trains on the Illawarra-Cronulla line stop at Loftus, Engadine, Heathcote,
Waterfall and Otford, and from these stations there are walking tracks into
the Park. By Car
From Sydney, follow the signs toward the Airport, and then follow the signs
to Wollongong (Princes Highway) or President Avenue at Brighton-le-Sands, turn
right and at the end of the street turn left onto Princes Highway keep going
until you are past Sutherland. The Audley entrance to the Royal National Park
is well signposted. You take a left turn of the Princes Highway just south
of Sutherland.
From Liverpool City, take the Heathcote Road exit from the M5 motorway (before
the toll booth). Turn right into Heathcote Road so you cross over the M5 Motorway
and follow it all the way to the Princes Highway (between Engadine and Heathcote).
You can then do one of two things:
Turn left and go back about 3km to enter the Park south of Sutherland (Audley
entrance); or
Turn right and head south to Waterfall and enter the Park there.
From Wollongong, drive north along the Princes Highway. After reaching Bulli
continue along Lawrence Hargraves Drive (don't go up the escarpment). Another
way is to follow the Mt Ousley Road to the Princes Highway and turn right at
Stanwell Tops to go to Stanwell Park. At the top of the Bluff, turn left along
Lady Wakehurst Drive, then continue to the Otford entrance of the Park. By Ferry
Cronulla National Park Ferry Cruises, 9523 2990, have a service from the wharf
near Cronulla railway station to Bundeena, and the trip takes 25-30 minutes.
The first ferry from Cronulla leaves at 5.30am Mon-Fri on the hour to 6.30pm,
8.30am Sat-Sun and public holidays on the hour to 6.30pm. The last ferry leaves
Bundeena daily at 7pm (summer), 6pm (winter).
It should be noted that Bundeena is not within the Royal National Park.
Tourist Information
A Visitor Centre and Wildlife Shop is on Farnell Avenue, Audley. Call into
the centre for advice on all aspects of your park visit. Permits for camping
are obtained here. It is open daily 8.30am-4pm, 9542 0648. The shop sells
books, film, maps, posters, gifts and souvenirs.
Park Entrance Fee
There is no charge for traffic travelling through and not stopping in the Park
from Sutherland to places south of the Park.
For those that intend to stop within the park the following charges apply:
Bus - $3.00 per adult, $1.00 for each school age child, under the age of 5
free, pensioners free. Must display pensioner card.
Cars - $9.00 per vehicle.
Motor Bikes - $3.00 per bike.
There is no charge for people who hike into the park for the day.
Park Regulations
All fauna, flora, Aboriginal sites and rock formations are protected.
Wildfires can destroy lives and property, so be careful, especially during
the bushfire danger period (normally October to March). Use only the fireplaces
provided and observe Total Fire Bans. Portable fuel stoves are required for
camping.
Pets and Firearms are not permitted in national parks.
Vehicles, including motorbikes must keep to formed public roads. Drive carefully.
Please use rubbish bins if provided; or take rubbish with you when you leave
the park.
Camping
Caravans and car camping are permitted at the camping ground at Bonnie Vale,
off Bundeena Road. It has toilet and shower blocks, but no powered sites.
In fact, there are only 40 sites in all, and during school holidays and long
weekends, ballots are held to allot them. There are so many applicants that
this seems to be the fairest way. At other times there is not so much demand,
and therefore there is a good chance of securing a site, but booking ahead
is essential. For reservations, 9542 0648.
For site fees, you can expect to pay about $10 per person for the first two
people, and a couple of dollars per extra person. Children under 5 years of
age are free.
There are lots of places for bush camping throughout
the park, however booking and obtaining permits are
essential. The permits must first be obtained from
the Visitor Centre. They are free, but written on the
back of them are the special conditions that apply
to camping in a national park, and this is the best
way of making sure that everyone is aware of them.
Activities
Weekends see many organised picnics arranged by sporting clubs, church groups
and families with the addition of aunts, uncles, grandparents and third cousins,
all taking advantage of the wide open expanse near the Audley causeway.
National Park Ranger guided activities are available.
Bookings and more information can be obtained on 9542
0649.
Picnicking
There are many picnic areas dotted throughout the park, but there are only
barbecue facilities at Audley, Warumbul, Wattamolla, Bonnie Vale and Garie.
Kiosks are found at Audley, Wattamolla and Garie Beach.
Swimming
Safe saltwater swimming is available at Bonnie Vale, Jibbon, Wattamolla and
Little Marley beaches, and these are favourite spots for families.
Surfers head for Garie, Era and Burning Palms beaches,
which are patrolled by surf lifesavers on weekends
and public holidays during summer.
Freshwater swimming is possible at Blue Pools, Karloo
Pool, Deer Pool, Curracurrang and Crystal Pools, but
care should be taken when swimming in rock pools. The
water always tends to be cold, so it is easy to get
cramps. It is not always easy to judge how deep a rock
pool is, so never jump or dive into these pools. Spinal
injury units of hospitals are always warning people
about the dangers of leaping head-first into unknown
waters.
Boating
The Audley Boatshed, 9545 4967, has rowing boats, canoes, kayaks and aquabikes
for hire, and only these may be used in Kangaroo Creek, and in the Hacking
River above the causeway. Private boats can be used downstream from the Audley
causeway.
The boat shed is open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm, Sun and public
holidays 9am-5.30pm. A small refundable deposit is
required for each craft.
Walking
The Park has over 150km of walking tracks that provide access to the wide range
of scenery available, and the Visitor Centre has track pamphlets. Bungoona,
Governor Game and Otford Lookouts offer chances to take spectacular photos,
and National, Winifred and Curra-currong Falls are easily accessible.
Cycling
The best route for cyclists is Lady Carrington Drive, which is closed to motor
vehicles, and is relatively flat. Ask at the Visitor Centre for directions.
Bicycles and mountain bikes are only allowed on management trails. They are
not permitted on walking tracks.
Sydney Tramway Museum
If you are visiting the Royal National Park on a Sunday or Wednesday, you might
like to check out the Sydney Tramway Museum in Pitt Street, Loftus, 9542
3646. It is hopen Sunday and Public Holidays 10am-5pm, Wednesday 9.30am-3.30pm,
but no one is admitted in the hour prior to closing.
Trams operated in Sydney for one hundred years to 1961, and a fleet of over
1500 vehicles provided the city with an efficient transport service. The Sydney
Tramway Museum has an excellent collection of Sydney trams, and others from
Brisbane, Ballarat, Melbourne and San Francisco, and also a selection of the
buses which replaced them in Sydney. This fleet includes the last remaining
double-decker trolley bus.
Every open day, a number of the museum's trams operate
along a kilometre of track, each return trip taking
about 15 minutes, but the San Francisco PCC Streetcar
only operates on the first Sunday of the month. There
is also a tramway waiting shed from Railway Square,
the unique counterweight dummy from the Balmain line,
and an extensive range of photographs and artefacts.
The museum has a shop with a range of books, post cards, video tapes and souvenirs,
as well as snacks and drinks. There are also picnic facilities within the Museum
grounds.
Admission is $12 adult, $6 child, and includes unlimited tram rides and use
of facilities.
Festivals
The Festival of Sydney is held during the entire month of January each year,
and features include twilight and open-air concerts in the Domain, contemporary
music at Hyde Park and Darling Harbour, outdoor movies at the Opera House,
bike rallies, street theatre, and classical theatre performances at the Opera
House, the Belvoir Theatre and the Seymour Centre.
Australia Day, January 26, sees the city come alive,
especially around the harbour, with all kinds of displays,
and a Ferrython in which all the Sydney ferries compete.
The Mardi Gras is organised by representatives of
the gay and lesbian community, and is held on the first
Friday in February each year. It is actually part of
a month-long festival that centres around the Oxford
Street section of the city. The main attraction of
the Mardi Gras for the thousands of spectators is the
colourful parade of extremely imaginative floats and
performers.
For visitors who are new to this scene, be aware that the parade's participants
are often very expressive. Nudity and sexual insinuation are always prevalent
here.
The Royal Easter Show was held at the Showground
in Moore Park beside the SCG for decades, but that
land is now occupied by Fox Studios. 1997 marked its
last appearance at that site and Shows are now held
at Homebush Bay, the venue of the 2000 Olympics. The
Show begins on the Friday before Good Friday and finishes
on Easter Tuesday.
Advertised as "when the country comes to town", there's
something for everyone, with displays of horticulture,
livestock, crafts and hi-tech machinery. For kids,
there are rides and sample bags, and for all ages there
is non-stop entertainment in the show ring with livestock
judging, trotting races, equestrian events, the Grand
Parade, bands, sky divers, clowns, rodeos, and fireworks
displays.
The Show is well patronised by Sydneysiders with attendances on the public
holidays reaching 100,000.
Anzac Day commemorates the actions of Australian
and New Zealand troops involved in the conflict of
the First World War, and the lives they sacrificed.
The day falls on the 25 April, the same date that the
soldiers landed on the shores of Gallipoli in 1914
and were overwhelmed by the Turkish resistance. Originally
conceived as a lightning campaign, the conflict soon
developed into an 8 month conflict during which time
both sides sustained heavy casualties. Anzac Day services
are held around the country and involve parades, marches,
laying wreaths, minutes of silence, playing The Last
Post and reciting the poem, For the Fallen. The opportunity
is taken to reflect on all military losses since WWI.
It remains a solemn and important day of remembrance
in the Australian psyche.
The National Folkloric Festival is an annual multicultural
event featuring dancers and musicians from many ethnic
backgrounds. It is held in June, and begins with a
Sunday parade that terminates at the Opera House, the
scene for the many events of the following weekend.
St Patrick's Day seems to be gaining momentum every
year. On the 17 March, thousands don a green item of
clothing, grab a clover in one hand, and trot down
to the nearest pub for a few pints or more of Guiness.
The day is intended to mark the death of Ireland's
patron saint and to commemorate his lifetime work of
converting the country's entire population to Catholicism,
but how this ties in with flagrant alcoholism remains
something of a mystery. There is plenty of fun and
good cheer, though halos are in scarce supply and the
behaviour is often less than saintly!
The Biennale of Sydney is an international exhibition
of contemporary art held every two years. Since its
inception in 1973, the Biennale has brought the world's
leading artists to Sydney, and more than 800 of them
from over 45 countries have been exhibited.
The Biennale is not only confined to Sydney as visiting artists travel giving
lectures, workshops and artist-in-residence programs, and special lectures
and displays are organised.
The Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race can hardly be classed
as a festival, but it does generate a lot of excitement.
Every Boxing Day thousands of people line the vantage
spots around the harbour to watch the mini and maxi
yachts set off on their adventure, and there are so
many boats of all sorts on the harbour, farewelling
the entrants, that it is a wonder they ever get through
the Heads. The race is closely monitored by news crews
in light aircraft, and hourly reports are given on
TV and radio as to who is in the lead, and by how much.
Meanwhile, the people in Hobart get ready for the big
welcoming party.
The City to Surf Fun Run is another annual event.
Held every year in August, thousands of people of all
ages assemble for the start of the run to Bondi Beach,
and as the starting gun goes off, Park Street becomes
a sea of people. Of course, the race is always won
by a professional marathon runner, but winning is not
really what the spectacle is all about. Everyone who
finishes receives a certificate, and their names are
listed in the newspapers. Even those who don't finish
are congratulated for entering, and there is a real
spirit of comradeship as you watch people helping each
other along the way.
In addition to the above, each municipal area of
Sydney has its own festival, and there are other special
annual events, such as the blessing of the fishing
fleet.
